“Tajikistan, go forward” – The reconstruction of a post-Soviet identity.

Tajikistan gained independence in 1991, after nearly seventy years within the Soviet Union. This small republic, bordering Afghanistan, was both the most distant from Moscow and the poorest of the Union. Three decades later, this central asian country is reshaping its identity.

In the centre of Dushanbe, the architectural legacy of the USSR is gradually being replaced by tall constructions – symbols of modernity and emancipation. The 121-metre Independence Tower, placed at the heart of the capital, is meant to embody this Tajik renewal. Just a few steps away, the national flag, raised on a 165-metre mast, proclaims the restored ambitions of the only Persian-speaking republic of the former Soviet Union.

Yet this apparent modernity stops at the edges of the capital. The further from its centre, the more the country resembles what it was before 1991. In parallel, the phrase “Tajikistan, forward!” (“Тоҷикистон, ба пеш!”) has been popularised by President Emomali Rahmon as an unofficial motto, aiming to inspire progress and national pride.

Through this project, I seek to question the notion of centre and periphery, to highlight the contrasts and imbalances that shape this young nation. The photographs are arranged according to their distance from the city centre, symbolised here by the Independence Tower. This project does not claim to be exhaustive or scientific, but rather offers a lens through which to approach the contemporary transformations of Tajikistan.

view, dushanbe, istiklol tower, tajikistan

View from the centre of Dushanbe, taken from the 121-metre Istiklol Tower (Independence Tower in Tajik). From this height, one can see the gradual disappearance of historic Soviet buildings, increasingly demolished to make way for new developments, following “Dubai” as a model of modernity.

chinese, parliament, dushanbe, under construction, tajikistan

The new Parliament of Tajikistan is under construction, financed and built with Chinese support. Over the past decade, China has become Tajikistan’s major economic partner, investing not only in infrastructure but also in natural resources such as gold mining.

Reflection of Dushanbe’s monumental flagpole, rising 165 metres above the city. Upon completion in 2011, it was the tallest flagpole in the world, holding the record until 2014.

construction, central dushanbe, tajikistan

In central Dushanbe, near the railway station, a newly erected building stands opposite a Soviet-era block. Across the city, such contrasts are becoming common, as older Soviet architecture is steadily replaced by modern constructions—often less adapted to the challenges of climate and energy efficiency.

One of the mosaics of Dushanbe, at the printing house on Rudaki Street. Dushanbe was once renowned for its unique Soviet-era mosaics, which adorned many buildings across the city. These works often depicted idealised daily life under socialism. Today, they are gradually being destroyed and replaced by new constructions, drawn from both ideological symbols and local cultural motifs.

soviet building, construction, dushanbe, tajikistan,

tajikistan, mosque, dushanbe, Central Mosque of Dushanbe, Qatar

Men leaving the newly built Central Mosque of Dushanbe, financed by Qatar. Covering an area of 12 hectares, it can accommodate up to 25,000 worshippers inside. Opened in 2024, it stands as both a religious and diplomatic symbol of Tajikistan’s ties with Qatar. Since the Middle Ages, Islam has been the majority religion in Central Asia. It was spread in the region by the Arabs in the 7th century, under the caliphate of Omar, partially replacing the traditional Zoroastrianism of the Tajiks.

9 of may, tajikistan, victory day, dushanbe, tajikistan

On 9 May, Tajiks parade in Dushanbe’s Victory Park to commemorate the end of the Second World War. Like in Russia, participants carry portraits of relatives who fought or died during the war, forming part of the Immortal Regiment.

At the entrance of the new Mehrgon Market, a car is displayed as the prize for a lottery draw.

Inside the new Mehrgon Market, women sell dairy products essential to Tajik cuisine, used in traditional meals such as kurutob and qurut.

In the old Mehrgon Market, a man prepares bread in a traditional tandoor oven, a centuries-old practice that continues to shape daily food culture across Tajikistan.

dushanbe, park, amusement park, tajikistan

A group of young people spend their free time in a park near Dushanbe Zoo, a popular meeting place in the city.

A young woman enjoys a ride on an ageing Soviet-era air swing in an amusement park in the city centre of Dushanbe. Many such rides, once symbols of modernity, are still in use today.

Waitresses sit together before beginning their working day in a canteen restaurant in Dushanbe, part of a dining tradition that dates back to the Soviet system of affordable public eateries.

A man rides a bus on the outskirts of Dushanbe. Public transport remains the main form of mobility for most residents, connecting the capital with surrounding villages and neighbourhoods.

watermelons, tajikistan, dushanbe, pastèque

Watermelons were brought from the countryside and unloaded at Varzob bus station. Watermelons are a staple of Tajik summer markets, and usually indicate the beginning of the summer season.

A bride and her friends stop at a kiosk in Dushanbe’s Botanical Garden. Every autumn Saturday, the garden becomes a stage for wedding photography, a long-standing tradition for newlyweds in the city.

Indian peafowl, botanical garden, dushanbe

Visitors watch an Indian peafowl at the Botanical Garden, one of the most popular leisure spaces in Dushanbe, blending recreation with natural heritage.

A typical Soviet-era housing block on the outskirts of Dushanbe. Around it, every available plot of land is cultivated, reflecting the continued importance of household farming for urban families.

Women celebrate the end of Ramadan in a family home on the outskirts of Dushanbe, close to the Soviet cemetery. While women welcome guests inside, men traditionally visit neighbours’ houses, where they are offered lunch.

On a Tuesday morning, a mother and her son walk back to their village, 10 kilometres from Dushanbe, after purchasing two cows and a calf. Dushanbe was the location of a large bazaar that operated on Mondays. This gave rise to the name Dushanbe from Dushanbe, which means Monday in the Persian language – literally, the second day (du) following Saturday (shanbe).

In early November, one of the first major buzkashi tournaments of the season takes place near the cement factory on the outskirts of Dushanbe. On this wide open field, dozens of horse riders gather to compete for cash prizes. This nomadic sports has been played for centuries in the region.

Mamad Ali and his horse rest after hours of exhausting games on the buzkashi field, located 4 kilometres outside Dushanbe near the cement factory. During the week, he works at the Botanical Garden, offering horse rides to visitors.

Riders struggle to seize the carcass of a dead goat. Much like a rugby scrum, the winner must drag it free and cross markers at the far end of the field to score.

valleys, tajikistan, moutains, landscape

Valleys and mountains north of Dushanbe. By November, the surrounding peaks begin to fill with snow, signalling the arrival of winter.

On the shore of the Varzob River, a few kilometres north of Dushanbe, a waterpark symbolises the new era of entertainment in Tajikistan. Thanks to its glaciers, water is an unlimited resource in Tajikistan. Around 60% of Central Asia’s glaciers lie within its borders.

In a village near Dushanbe, a family transports scrap metal in their old Lada.

At the newly reconstructed historical site of Hisar, near Dushanbe, a floral arch has been installed for wedding photographs. A group of young women pose for pictures beneath it.

In the countryside near the Romit hot springs, a group of women cook beef in the shade of a tree. It is common for Tajik families to spend the day picnicking in nature.

An elderly man finishes a bath at the Romit hot springs. Such springs are a popular leisure and health activity among Tajiks, valued for their therapeutic qualities.

Soviet bus stop, tajikistan, soviet, bus,

A Soviet-era bus stop stands along the road between Romit and Dushanbe, a relic of the extensive transport network built in the mid-20th century.

TAJIKISTAN, Khoja Obi Garm. View of Khoja Obi Garm sanatorium, located 1960 meters above sea level. At the top, several residential bars are 100 meters long and accommodate hundreds of rooms. At the bottom left, a cube of 2000 square meters contains the refectory on the first floor and the auditorium on the ground floor. Photography by Lambert Coleman. TADJIKISTAN, Khoja Obi Garm. Vue du sanatorium de Khoja Obi Garm, située à 1960 mètres d'altitude. En haut, plusieurs barres d’habitations de 100 mètres de long, qui accueillent des centaines de chambres. En bas à gauche, un cube de 2000 mètres carrés contient le réfectoire au premier étage, et l’auditorium au rez-de chaussé. Photographie par Lambert Coleman.

View of the Khoja Obi Garm sanatorium, located 1,960 metres above sea level. The complex includes several 100-metre-long residential blocks with hundreds of rooms. At the lower left, a cube-shaped building of 2,000 square metres houses the refectory on the first floor and the auditorium on the ground floor.

Mohammad enjoys a steam bath in a barrel specially designed for the treatment. The steam can reach temperatures of up to 50°C.

Residents wait to enter the canteen for one of their three daily meals. Behind them, a local villager has set up a small table to sell honey.

Tajikistan, carrots, plov, khoja obigarm

Carrots are peeled and cut in preparation for plov, the national dish of Tajikistan and Uzbekistan, made of rice, carrots, and mutton (sometimes with chickpeas).

A resident takes in the mountain view from a balcony at Khoja Obi Garm Sanatorium, preparing for another day of treatments and rest.

Afsal is preparing for his wedding in his home village of Zidi, 70 kilometres from Dushanbe. A photographer takes his portrait before the celebrations begin.

On the same day, another family in Zidi is hosting a wedding. Relatives and neighbours prepare large quantities of food for the guests who will soon arrive.

The house and garden are decorated with colourful balloons, creating a festive atmosphere.

The bride, arriving from a neighbouring village, will be welcomed by the entire community. For a 17-year-old woman, this moment can be both overwhelming and deeply significant.

Family members watch the wedding unfold from inside the house, observing the ceremonies and gatherings taking place outside.

Afsal with his mother. He is her first son to marry. According to Tajik tradition, the new bride will take over many of her mother-in-law’s household responsibilities.

Loudspeakers play music at Afsal’s wedding, filling the village with sound.

tajiksitan, iskanderkul, lake, president, emomali rahmon

A billboard displays the portrait of Tajikistan’s president on the shore of Iskanderkul, one of the country’s most famous lakes. Images of the president are visible throughout Tajikistan. He was elected with 92% of votes during the last election. The lake takes its name from Alexander the Great's passage in Tajikistan: Iskander is the Persian pronunciation of Alexander, and kul means lake in many Turkic languages.

A shepherd prays on the shore of one of the “Seven Lakes” in the Panjakent region, holding his misbaha (a string of prayer beads) in his hand.

A farmer stacks hay to prepare for the coming winter, part of the annual cycle of agricultural labour in Tajik villages.

Shepherds move their flocks across the mountains, blocking the main road that links Dushanbe to the north of the country. This seasonal transhumance remains a common sight in Tajikistan.

Once a week, a train runs from Dushanbe to Kulob, passing through Bokhtar. Built during the Soviet era, the railway network is now sparse and underdeveloped in this mountainous country. The construction of train lines was used during the Tsar Empire, and the soviet union to connect newly conquered territory to the capital, to Russia.

Tajikistan, football, istikiol dushanbe,

Penalty shoot-out at the final of the Tajik football championship, where the Istiklol Dushanbe won its 9th titlte in a row over the Kuktosh Rudaki. The football club was founded to commemorate the Independence of Tajikistan; Istiklol in Tajik Persian means 'independence'.

Children enjoy a ride on an old swing boat in Panjakent, the third-largest town in Tajikistan. Many such amusement rides date back to the Soviet period.

A man wears a USSR T-shirt at the market in Khujand, the second-largest city in Tajikistan. Soviet symbols remain visible in everyday life, decades after independence.

Lenin statue, tajikistan, Tadjikistan, Khujand, victory park

The 12-metre statue of Lenin in Khujand was erected in 1974 to mark the 50th anniversary of his death, when the city was still called Leninabad. In 2011, the monument was relocated to the outskirts of the city, in Victory Park, where surrounding boards commemorate Tajik heroes of the Second World War. Its former site in the city centre is now occupied by a statue of Ismoili Somoni, regarded as the founder of Tajik statehood.