Tomsk, the former Athens of Siberia.

At three thousand kilometres east of Moscow, in the heart of the boreal forest, time passes slowly in Tomsk. We are in February, the thermometer frequently displays minus 25 degrees, and the mild temperatures of July and August seem far away.

Founded in 1604, Tomsk embodies the expansion of the Russian Tsardom to the east, during the conquest of Siberia. Situated on the trading route between Beijing and Moscow, here was erected, in 1888, the first University of Siberia. It was then named the « Athens of Siberia ». At that time, it was the largest town in the Asiatic part of Russia. A decade later, it was excluded from the Trans-Siberian railway, thus from the new line of attraction where most of the Siberian population has now gathered.

Nowadays, Tomsk is a town of contrasts. Its reputed technical universities drain a young population from the region. Its city centre releases a timeless feeling; here, wooden houses, which symbolise Siberian architecture, are facing Soviet blocs and brand new post-soviet buildings. In the same space, the visible poverty melts with signs of ostentatious displays of wealth. The weight of the past and traditions get along with a present full of paradox and contradictions.

This project was shown at the Barrobjectif festival.

Other photo series from Russia (here, here and here).

Tomsk, Russia, Russie, Siberie, Siberia, Winter, Photo, Documentary, Reportage, Documentaire

In Tomsk City Center, this tramway line signalizes the separation between the old city, characterized by wooden constructions, and modern residential quarters, where Soviet tower blocks have replaced ancient wooden structures.

Wooden houses, typical of Siberian architecture, are the last vestiges of the 17th-century Russian expansion. According to local beliefs, the carved ornaments around doors and windows were protecting the house and the occupants. Because they were uncomfortable and poorly insulated, stone and bricks houses replaced those houses, during the past century.

Previously situated on the ancient trade route between Moscow and Beijing, Tomsk was the biggest town in Siberia. At the end of the 19th century, the city was excluded from the trans-Siberian railway route, shifting the regional center of gravity more south.

From this glorious time, Tomsk inherited from its university, first from Siberia, inaugurated in 1888. For a longtime, it was the only one in the Asian part of Russia, and acquired the name of “Siberian Athens.” Nowadays, this university is still renowned in technology and scientific fields and attracts a large body of students from surrounding regions and central Asia.

A student is revising her homework in the zoological museum, at the Tomsk University. Thus museum, funded in 1887, gathers a collection of thousands of mammals, reptiles, amphibians, and birds, collected over more than one century in Siberia as well as in other parts of the world.

Anatoli Nekrasov is teaching mathematics. His work concerns climate change, and his writings are alerting the rest of humanity regarding its dangers.

A pink limo is parked down a tower block in a popular area, contrasting with the monotonous surrounding blocks. On one of the snowed window, someone has written «цветы на 8 марта»(Flowers for the 8th of March), referring to the upcoming international days for the women rights.

Tomsk counts many historical monuments that remind the unity and the dedicated efforts of the Russian people during the previous military campaigns. Most of those historical monuments refer to the “Great Patriotic War” from 1941 to 1945 whereas this stela, dominated by an eagle who spread its wings, was erected in souvenir of the “patriotic war”’ which defeated Napoleon in 1812.

After school, a group of teenagers is playing around a snowed toboggan in the Tomsk central park. Covered by snow 180 days per year, the activity of the central park drastically change between the summer and the winter season.

Even though the temperatures can drop below minus 30 degrees, Tomsk central market is open all year long. On the stalls, all the necessaries to face cold winters can be found, from the «Chapka» (a hat made of fur) to the «zakuskas» (dishes – pickles, marinated mushrooms, dry fishes, etc., - eaten while drinking vodka).

At mid-day, believers come to pray at the Peter and Paul Orthodox Church. This churh is one of the rare which was still open in Tomsk during the soviet period. Due to soviet anticlericalism, most of the other churches were closed, transformed into warehouses or in factories fabricating matches. They were rehabilitated only at the fall fo the Soviet Union.

Shortly after the Second World War, and the start of the main coal power plant, a tramway network was developed to cover the whole Tomsk agglomeration, connecting the city center to factories in the outskirts. Still today, the tramway is part of the urban landscape.

A symbol of the economic transition between socialism and capitalism, many kiosks had flourished during the 90’s, quite often in an informal way. Here, bordering a tramway line, in the middle of the monotony of blocks of apartment buildings of a popular area, a bright color kiosk proposed a multitude of ice-creams.

At the rush hour, the main artery of Tomsk city center is congested. On the left, a bus line from the Soviet car brand “PAZ.” On the right, an advertisement board, for the multinational company “Mac Donalds.” Over the past few years, the streets are full of advertisement boards of any kinds, and any sizes have changed the urban landscape of Tomsk.

Many power plants insure Tomsk energy supplies. Very close to the city center, the coal power plant GRES-2, built in 1942, does not satisfy the needs of the town. The additional requirements come from Seversk, situated in the outskirt of Tomsk. Seversk is one of the last “Closed cities” of Russia: only its 109,000 inhabitants can cross the checkpoints which lead to the town.

In the city center, contrasting with wooden houses, an abandoned industrial site. Graffiti are now covering a part of its walls.

In one of the new residential areas built in the outskirt of Tomsk, colored tower blocks contrast with the one from the Soviet periods in the city center. Playgrounds were built between each tower block to entertain children. Thus, parents can control their children from their apartment.

In front of one of the oldest church of Tomsk, enthroned the statue of the revolutionary Lenin, father of the Soviet Russia. At his feet, a “Yandex Taxi,” the emblem of the entry of Russia into the numeric capitalist era. Yandex, the Russian equivalent of Google, has introduced a taxi service accessible from Smartphone, similar to Uber. This service, operational even in the most remote towns, is a symbol of the connected Russia.

For nearly half of the year, a thick layer of snow covers the ground. January and February face the most extreme temperatures. Football fields and basketball playground are impracticable. The pupils of the school number 4 will play again on their basketball playground only from April.

Vitali plays some chastushka tracks with his accordion, whereas his friends sing one these folk songs. Today, people of Kornilovo, a village situated in the outskirt of Tomsk, celebrates «Mazlenitsza,» a popular festival preceding the orthodox fasting period.

One of the rare bridges which links Tomsk to the Russian mediatic landscape, Tom, the football club of the Siberian town, has recently joined the elite of the Russia football. This championship has the particularity to stop between December and March because of the climatic conditions which affect the games.

At the front door of the Tomsk Saint Trinity church, after each mass, Mikhaïl is begging for alms from parishioners and ensures his foods needs. They are a few people begging in the streets despite the extreme temperatures, and the climatic conditions make their situation very concerning.

After a slightly decline following the fall of the USSR, the Tomsk population is growing since the beginning of the years 2000. New districts are emerging in the outskirts, and blocks of flats are flourishing. Mostly to host new families, vacant public spaces are converted into recreational spaces. Here, a young couple is ice-skating, while the father is pushing the trolley, in which is a child is resting.

During Maslenitza, the festival which precedes the Orthodox Lent, a participant in a contest tries to climb a pole. Admired by children, he might win the rooster destined to the winner.

Anatoli Nekrasov is teaching mathematics. His work concerns climate change, and his writings are alerting the rest of humanity regarding its dangers.

From the Lagerny park, paragliders enjoy a sunny day, flying over the snowy Tom River. A passerby stops to admire them. According to local people, the cold can be an issue only at – 30 degrees. This day, and despite temperatures which fell under – 15 degrees, many were going for outdoor activities.